Le Xa Temple
Good to know
- It is advisable to arrive early for a spacious experience
- Free
- Convenient to travel by taxi or bus.
Introduction
Le Xa Temple belongs to Le Xa Hamlet, Mai Lam Commune, now Thai Binh Hamlet, Dong Anh Commune, Hanoi City. In the past, the hamlet had the vernacular name Coi Loi, belonging to Danh Lam Commune, Hoi Phu Canton. After 1946, Coi Loi was renamed Le Xa Hamlet, located in the west of Mai Lam Commune, quite close to the Duong River; the hamlet lies inside the dike to the north and has many convenient transport routes to surrounding areas.
Le Xa Temple worships General Dao Ky and his wife Phuong Dung, two talented generals of the Trung Sisters. Dao Ky was born in Hoi Phu Village, Coi Giang Canton, in the Dong Ngan region. He lost his parents early, was a man of great ambition, and excelled in both letters and martial arts. Phuong Dung was the daughter of Nguyen Trat, a native of Vinh Te Hamlet, Lang Tai District (Bac Ninh). The two married. Hearing that the Trung Sisters were preparing an uprising in Me Linh, Dao Ky and Phuong Dung recruited 300 people and followed the Trung Sisters to defeat To Dinh's army. The uprising succeeded, Trung Trac ascended the throne and established the capital at Me Linh. Phuong Dung was granted the title of princess, and Dao Ky was appointed to guard Dong Ngan District. In 42–43, Dao Ky and Phuong Dung, by order of the Trung Sisters, led troops against Ma Yuan's army. The enemy was strong; the Trung Sisters died, and Dao Ky and his wife were separated. Dao Ky was slashed across the side by the enemy but still resolutely rode his horse to Dong Ngan; at Co Loa land he passed away. Phuong Dung sought her husband's homeland, but when passing Co Loa she learned that Dao Ky had died, so she drew her sword and took her own life. The place where they died was covered by a mound that formed two large tombs. Later, to commemorate their merits, successive kings issued edicts conferring on them the rank of superior deity, and people in many places honored them as tutelary gods.
Based on the remaining architectural components and decorations of the temple, they bear the style of the 19th century; some ritual objects date earlier, to around the end of the 18th century. On the roof of the main ritual hall is inscribed the year of the temple's restoration: Khai Dinh Nham Tuat (1922). The temple faces south-southwest toward the fields. The temple has 5 bays and 2 side wings; on the roof are two dragons flanking a moon and two nghê. The left range has 3 bays, the right range 8 bays. The temple has a ground plan in the shape of the character “ding” with two architectural parts: the great hall and the rear sanctuary. The great hall is of the gable-end with bricked-up ends and shoulder brackets type, with a two-level brick-paved foundation. The great hall has 5 bays with 6 trusses and rafters, including 2 trusses placed at the gable ends; the bays are evenly made with a wide porch in front, and the structure is simple. The rear sanctuary has two bays; its floor is higher than that of the main ritual hall; in the row of columns there is a stepped brick wall built ready and used for worship objects, and offerings are placed at the two columns of the gable truss, where a wooden altar platform is assembled as the altar of the saint. The temple has much decoration on the components, mainly in the main ritual hall and the rear sanctuary, using the technique of smooth planing and tight joining. The entrance to the rear sanctuary has three characters “Toi Linh Tu”, on the wind boards there is a relief-carved dragon transformation image in the style of a bas-relief. The dragon transformation image is beautifully and stylizedly depicted. On the upper part of the pedestal body is a bas-relief of the four sacred creatures, with simple stylized carvings; on the beams and brackets are chrysanthemum-vine carvings. The roof ridge of the great hall is decorated with a raised pair of dragons flanking the moon, with bodies assembled from ceramic. The dragon-flanking image is made soft with many curling, twisting sections and spreading manes, and both ends are carefully depicted. The two ornamental pillars on the gable walls are of moderate height with a transformed unicorn image at the top; below are four panels of the four sacred creatures in relief made with lime and molasses.
Le Xa Temple still preserves a rich and valuable collection of ritual objects: two sets of worship thrones, two wooden tablets of the saint lacquered in red and gilded, intricately carved; 2 worship hats, 1 pair of boots, 1 pair of shoes made of finely woven and hooked bronze; 1 set of an eight-carriage palanquin, 2 worship platforms, an incense table, eight treasures… A horizontal plaque “Coi Giang Hao Khi” (good spirit of Coi Giang) was made in Bao Dai Canh Thin (1940); 2 pairs of wooden couplets. 21 royal edicts. The earliest edict is the Canh Hung 44th year edict (1783). 2 copies of the legends of the two saints Dao Ky and Phuong Dung, copied from Thi Thon Village, which worships the same saints as Le Xa. In addition, the temple also preserves many other ritual and ceremonial objects: a water stand, incense bowls, offering trays, ceremonial curtains… Le Xa Village organizes a festival together with Loc Ha, Mai Hien, Hoi Phu, Dong Tru, and Phuc Tho villages of the old Coi Canton, Dong Ngan Prefecture, Kinh Bac. The festival takes place on March 15 every year. On the afternoon of the 14th, the admission ceremony is held at the temple. On the morning of the 15th, there is a palanquin procession. Leading the procession is the flag leader, followed by the four sacred creatures flag team, the ri flag dance team, the senh tien dance team, the five elements flag team, and the eight-tone band. The eight-carriage palanquin carries the tablet of General Dao Ky, covered with a canopy and carried by 16 young men. Behind is the palanquin of Lady Phuong Dung, covered with flags and fans and carried by 18 young women. Last is the ritual group of elderly men, the incense-offering group of elderly women, the delegation, and the people attending the festival. At the shrine, the villagers perform a ceremony to worship the saints and pray for peace and favorable weather. The ritual lasts 2 hours, after which the procession returns to the palace. The main ceremony is held before the incense table and lasts until 18:00. After the ritual, villagers enthusiastically participate in folk games: wrestling, traditional martial arts, ca tru singing, quan ho singing on the lake, and classical opera performances. There are also contests for catching ducks, cockfighting, and danh chac. Le Xa Temple was ranked as a national historical and architectural-artistic relic by Decision No. 138/QD on January 31, 1992.


