The Mạch Tràng rice vermicelli-making craft

Amid the land of Cổ Loa – where many layers of history are preserved, Mạch Tràng village still persistently maintains the traditional rice vermicelli-making craft. Despite the changes of time, that rice vermicelli remains a source of pride and a symbol of the essence of the homeland.

Mạch Tràng rice vermicelli has origins tied to the love story of Mỵ Châu and Trọng Thủy. Legend has it that during a banquet preparing for the engagement ceremony of Princess Mỵ Châu, the person making the tapioca dumplings accidentally spilled the flour into a basket soaking in a cauldron of boiling water. He hurriedly lifted the basket, and the tapioca dough had formed into long strands. Not wanting to waste it, he mixed those dough strands with water celery to make a snack. Unexpectedly, this dish was praised by the king and became a special dish at the king's receptions for guests.

Previously, Mạch Tràng residents often chose Bao Thai Hong, Moc Tuyen, C70, and C71 rice varieties to make rice vermicelli. Today the rice is mainly C70, C71, and Khang Dan. These rice varieties have a high starch content, yielding many vermicelli strands.

Over time, the vermicelli-making technique has become increasingly refined and unique. The hands and subtle skill of Mạch Tràng vermicelli makers have created a rice vermicelli that cannot be mistaken for any other. The first difference is in color: Mạch Tràng vermicelli is not made directly from raw flour, but goes through a careful soaking and fermenting process, so thorough that sometimes just a light squeeze of the hand makes the rice grains soft. In other vermicelli-making regions, rice is usually washed, rinsed clean, and soaked overnight. Then the soaked rice is ground fine with water into a soft, mushy rice flour. In Mạch Tràng, the rice is carefully sifted, all shriveled grains and darkened tips are removed, and then it is washed and rinsed clean of grit. Before being ground fine, the rice is incubated (using a rice incubating blanket) for about 2–4 days, depending on weather conditions. After incubation, the rice is taken out, washed clean, and soaked in water for 1–2 days; when it feels soft to the touch, it is ground. The flour water is soaked to remove sourness for 2 days, changing the water 7–8 times a day so that the water becomes clear and the flour clean. It must be soaked in a well-fired jar so the vermicelli does not spoil. Once the flour is ready, it is drained of water and pressed very firmly. When the flour hardens, it is put into a mortar and pounded. Then it is put into a khỏa to become smooth and elastic.

The workers take the dough balls that have been cut out (called quả trùng) and boil them until cooked for about 15–20 minutes; when the dough turns yellow, they remove it. Next, they bring water to a boil at 100 degrees, then stir the water (using a coconut ladle to swirl the water in a circle), put the dough into a screw press, and turn it continuously by hand so the dough falls down into vermicelli strands. The vermicelli strands are then put into boiling water, stirred evenly, and boiled until cooked. These extremely elaborate and meticulous steps show the diligence, enduring labor, and perseverance of the people of Mạch Tràng – Cổ Loa.

The ivory-white color of the vermicelli comes from the fermentation process. Thanks to careful soaking and fermenting, Mạch Tràng vermicelli can be kept for 2 or 3 days without using any preservatives. The strands are soft and chewy; though short, they do not break, and when stir-fried with water celery they do not fall apart.

After going through the steps, once the flour is made and the product is finished, the vermicelli strands taken from the pot are twisted into small, long sheets that can be arranged around a basket lined with ngái leaves to drain. Such sheets of vermicelli are only about the size of a leaf, so they are also called Mạch Tràng bún lá. Not everyone can smooth the strands evenly and beautifully; only longtime, experienced makers can do this.

Today, along with advances in science and technology, many vermicelli-making steps have been mechanized. Production households in the village use grinding machines and presses to save time and effort. However, Mạch Tràng people still keep the traditional recipe, from rice selection to the way the batter is spread, so that the vermicelli strands retain their distinctive old flavor.

Mạch Tràng vermicelli is now consumed throughout Hanoi city and neighboring areas. Although there are no longer as many households practicing the craft as before, those who remain still patiently keep their ancestors' craft – both to make a living and to preserve memories of the homeland.

For the people of Cổ Loa, Mạch Tràng vermicelli is not only a dish but a part of the soul of the countryside. In every white, chewy strand of vermicelli is the whole story of the skill, diligence, and pride of generations of local people.

Amid the pace of modern life, the image of baskets of white vermicelli steaming each morning still makes anyone who has passed through Mạch Tràng village stop. Although the old craft may have changed, the heart of those who keep it remains as intact as ever – quiet, simple, yet enduring, contributing to the identity of the thousand-year-old civilized land of Cổ Loa.